| List of Illustrations |
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ixx | |
| Acknowledgements |
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xxi | |
| Map of the city |
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xxii | |
| Introduction |
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1 | (14) |
| CHARACTER OF A CITY |
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1 The shape of the city;from The Beauties of Scotland by Robert Forsyth |
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15 | (1) |
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2 A first view of the city in 1819; from Peter's Letters to his Kinsfolk by J.G. Lockhart |
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15 | (2) |
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3 The buildings of Edinburgh in 1829; from Modern Athens, Displayed in a Series of Views of Edinburgh in the Nineteenth Century, from Original Drawings by Mr Thomas H. Shepherd, text by John Britton |
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17 | (3) |
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4 Looking back on the 1860's; from Memoirs of Two Cities, Edinburgh and Aberdeen by David Masson |
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20 | (4) |
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5 The windy city, 1878; from Edinburgh, Picturesque Notes by Robert Louis Stevenson |
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24 | (3) |
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6 Looking back on the 1920's; from Was: A Pastime from Time Past by David Daiches |
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27 | (6) |
| EDINBURGH THE CASTLE |
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7 The recapture of Edinburgh Castle from the English in March 1313; from Tales of a Grandfather by Sir Walter Scott |
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33 | (2) |
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8 Rivalry among the great families of Scotland led to many acts of violence, notable among which was the killing of the young Earl of Douglas in the Castle in 1440; from A General History of Scotland, Together with a Particular History of the Houses of Douglas and Angus by David Hume of Godscroft |
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35 | (3) |
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9 When Mary Queen of Scots fled to England in 1568, Scotland was governed by the Earl of Morton in the name of the child James VI; Sir William Kirkcaldy of Grange held Edinburgh Castle in the name of Queen Mary against Morton and the King's men, 1571-3; from Old and New Edinburgh by James Grant |
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38 | (2) |
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10 The Castle in 1598; from An Itinerary written by Fynes Moryson, gent. |
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40 | (1) |
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11 The Castle in 1618; from the Pennyles Pilgrimage: or the money-less perambulation of John Taylor from London to Edenborough by John Taylor |
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40 | (1) |
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12 The Castle in 1636; from The Diary of Sir William Brereton |
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41 | (1) |
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13 The Castle in 1661: a French view; from the Antiquarian Repertory, Volume IV |
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42 | (1) |
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14 When Bonnie Prince Charlie and his Highland army occupied Edinburgh in September 1745, the Castle was garrisoned by government troops commanded by the 85-year-old General Guest, and never surrendered to the Jacobites; from The History of the Rebellion in the Year 1745 by John Home |
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43 | (3) |
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15 The rediscovery of the Scottish regalia in the Castle; from The Prose Works of Sir Walter Scott, Volume VII |
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46 | (2) |
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16 The view from the Castle in 1878; from Edinburgh, Picturesque Notes by Robert Louis Stevenson |
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48 | (2) |
| HIGH STREET AND CANONGATE, MERCAT CROSS, TOLBOOTH, GRASSMARKET |
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17 The political conflicts of sixteenth-century Edinburgh resulted in a great deal of street brawling, of which the most serious occurred in 1520; from Traditions of Edinburgh by Robert Chambers |
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50 | (2) |
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18 The High Street and Canongate in 1598; from An Itinerary written by Fynes Moryson, gent. |
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52 | (1) |
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19 The High Street and Canongate in 1636; from The Diary of Sir William Brereton |
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52 | (1) |
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20 The execution of James Graham, fifth Earl and first Marquis of Montrose, at the Mercat Cross in 1560; from Memoirs of the Marquis of Montrose by Mark Napier |
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53 | (2) |
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21 The High Street in the mid-seventeenth century; from Epistolae Ho-Elianae: Familiar Letters Domestic and Forren by James Howell |
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55 | (1) |
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22 Strange animals in the Canongate, in the 1650's; from A Diary of Public Transactions and Other Occurrences Chiefly in Scotland from 1650 to 1667 by John Nicoll |
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55 | (1) |
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23 Charles II is proclaimed King at the Mercat Cross, May 1660; from A Diary of Public Transactions and Other Occurrences Chiefly in Scotland from 1650 to 1667 by John Nicoll |
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56 | (1) |
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24 The execution of Argyll at the Mercat Cross, 1685;from The History of the Sufferings of the Church of Scotland by the Rev. Robert Wodrow, Volume IV |
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56 | (2) |
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25 Anti-Union riots in the High Street, 1706; from The Letters of Daniel Defoe, edited by G.H. Healey |
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58 | (2) |
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26 The High Street and the Canongate in the 1720's; from Tour thro' the Whole Island of Britain, Volume III by Daniel Defoe |
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60 | (1) |
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27 The escape of one smuggler from the Tolbooth Church, and the execution of another in the Grassmarket; from The Autobiography of Dr Alexander Carlyle of Inveresk 1722-1805, edited by J. Hill Burton |
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61 | (3) |
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28 The lynching of Captain Porteous in the Grassmarket; from The Heart of Midlothian by Walter Scott |
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64 | (3) |
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29 Buildings in the High Street in 1769; from A Tour in Scotland MDCCLXIX by Thomas Pennant |
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67 | (1) |
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30 The High Street market in 1774; from Letters from Edinburgh; Written in the Years 1774 and 1775 by Captain Edward Topham |
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68 | (1) |
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31 The High Street in 1805; from The Beauties of Scotland by Robert Forsyth |
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69 | (1) |
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32 The great fire of 1824; from Edinburgh in the Nineteenth Century, being a diary of the chief events which have occurred in the city from 1800 AD to 1900 AD, edited by W.M. Gilbert |
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70 | (3) |
| THE WEST BOW |
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33 Character of the West Bow; from Traditions of Edinburgh by Robert Chambers |
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73 | (1) |
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34 The story of Major Weir, 1670; from Traditions of Edinburgh by Robert Chambers |
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74 | (3) |
| HOLYROOD ABBEY AND THE PALACE OF HOLYROODHOUSE |
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35 The founding of Holyrood Abbey by David I in 1128; from The Description of Scotland written at first by Hector Boethius in Latin and afterwards translated into the Scottish Speech by John Bellenden, Archdeacon of Murray, and now finallie in English by W.H. |
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77 | (1) |
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36 The trial of John Knox before the Privy Council at the Palace of Holyroodhouse, 1563; from The History of the Reformation in Scotland by John Knox, edited by C.J. Guthrie |
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78 | (2) |
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37 The coronation of Charles I in the Abbey Church of Holyrood House, 18 June 1633; from History of the Troubles and Memorable Transactions in Scotland and England from M.DC.XXIV to M.DL.XLV by John Spalding |
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80 | (3) |
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38 The murder of David Riccio (or Rizzio), the Queen's musician, in the Palace of Holyroodhouse, 1566; from A Relation of the Death of David Rizzio, chief favourite to Mary Stuart Queen of Scotland by Lord Ruthen |
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83 | (5) |
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39 James VII fits out the Abbey Church, Holyrood, as a Roman Catholic chapel, 1687; from Chronological Notes of Scottish Affairs from 1680 till 1701 by Sir John Lauder of Fountainhall |
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88 | (1) |
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40 The mob purges the Abbey Church of its Roman Catholic ornaments, December 1688; from Memorials of Edinburgh in the Olden Time by Sir Daniel Wilson |
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88 | (1) |
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41 Bonnie Prince Charlie in Holyrood, 1745; from The History of the Rebellion in the Year 1745 by John Home |
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89 | (1) |
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42 Charles X of France in Holyrood; from Kay's Edinburgh Portraits written by James Paterson and edited by James Maidment, Volume II |
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90 | (2) |
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43 Whisky at the Palace of Holyroodhouse, during the visit of George IV to Scotland in 1822 (the first by any reigning monarch since James VII in the late seventeenth century); from Memoirs of a Highland Lady 1797-1827 by Elizabeth Grant of Rothiemurchus, revised and edited by Angus Davidson |
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92 | (1) |
| THE HIGH KIRK OF ST GILES |
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44 John Knox first preached at St Giles in 1559, at a time when Mary Queen of Scots, with her French Catholic supporters, was opposed by the anti-Catholic Presbyterians; from The History of the Reformation in Scotland by John Knox |
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93 | (2) |
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45 St Giles in 1598; from An Itinerary written by Fynes Moryson, gent. |
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95 | (1) |
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46 The protest in St Giles on 23 July 1637 against the imposition of Archbishop Laud's new service book; from A Relation of the Proceedings concerning the Affairs of the Kirk of Scotland by John, Earl of Rothes |
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96 | (2) |
| PARLIAMENT SQUARE, PARLIAMENT CLOSE, PARLIAMENT HOUSE (OR HALL) |
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47 The 'riding' of the Scottish Parliament - the old feudal ceremony of riding in procession from Holyrood to Parliament House - in 1669; from Travels over England, Scotland and Wales by James Brome |
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98 | (1) |
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48 The women of Edinburgh present a petition, 4 June 1672; from The Secret and True History of the Church of Scotland from the Restoration to the year 1678 by James Kirkton |
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99 | (1) |
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49 The last 'riding' of the Scottish Parliament, 6 May 1703; from the Appendix to The History of Edinburgh by Hugo Arnot |
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100 | (2) |
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50 Riots against the Union in 1706; from Memoirs Concerning the Affairs of Scotland by George Lockhart of Carnwath |
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102 | (1) |
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51 After four years of fierce debate, the Scottish Parliament finally votes for an 'incorporating union' with England on 16 January 1707; from Minutes of the Proceedings in Parliament |
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103 | (1) |
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52 After the Union the Scottish Parliament ceased to exist and Parliament Hall became part of the Scottish Law Courts, which later moved to adjacent new buildings to the East of Parliament Hall (still in Parliament Square); from Memorials of His Time by Lord Cockburn |
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104 | (2) |
| THE LAWNMARKET |
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53 William Brodie, Deacon of Wrights and Masons of Edinburgh, had a thriving business as a cabinet-maker in the Lawnmarket, but he led a very different life at night; from Kay's Edinburgh Portraits written by James Paterson and edited by James Maidment |
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106 | (6) |
| KIRK O'FIELD |
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54 The murder of Darnley, 10 February 1567; from Traditions of Edinburgh by Robert Chambers |
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112 | (3) |
| THE UNIVERSITY OF EDINBURGH |
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55 The original building in 1769; from A Tour in Scotland MDCCLXIX by Thomas Pennant |
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115 | (1) |
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56 Laying the foundation stone of the new university on South Bridge (now the Old College), 1789; from Memorials of His Time by Lord Cockburn |
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116 | (1) |
| THE NEW TOWN |
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57 The origins of the New Town; from 'Proposals for carrying on certain Public Works in the City of Edinburgh' |
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117 | (2) |
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58 The New Town at the end of the eighteenth century; from Scotland Delineated by Robert Heron |
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119 | (1) |
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59 The spreading of the New Town; from Memorials of His Time by Lord Cockburn |
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120 | (1) |
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60 The Disruption, which split the Church of Scotland, takes place at the General Assembly of 1843 in St Andrew's Church (now the Church of St Andrew and St George), George Street; from the Journal of Henry Cockburn, 1831-1845, Volume II |
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121 | (2) |
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61 The New Town, 1878, and Princes Street Gardens; from Edinburgh, Picturesque Notes by Robert Louis Stevenson |
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123 | (1) |
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62 Walking in Princes Street, about 1814; from Reminiscences by Thomas Carlyle |
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124 | (1) |
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63 Walking in Princes Street, 1935; from Scottish Journey by Edwin Muir |
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125 | (2) |
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64 Princes Street in 1960; from Edinburgh by Eric Linklater |
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127 | (2) |
| THE MOUND |
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65 The building of The Mound; from The Beauties of Scotland by Robert Forsyth (1805) |
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129 | (2) |
| CALTON HILL |
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66 The view from Calton Hill, 1829; from Modern Athens, Displayed in a Series of Views of Edinburgh in the Nineteenth Century, from Original Drawings by Mr Thomas H. Shepherd, text by John Britton |
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131 | (1) |
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67 The view from Calton Hill, 1879; from Edinburgh, Picturesque Notes by Robert Louis Stevenson |
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131 | (3) |
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68 The Nelson Monument and the National Monument in the 1880's; from Old and New Edinburgh by James Grant |
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134 | (2) |
| ARTHUR'S SEAT AND HOLYROOD PARK |
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69 Ruins on Arthur's Seat; from The Heart of Midlothian by Walter Scott |
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136 | (1) |
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70 Mutiny of the Seaforth Highlanders at Arthur's Seat; from Kay's Edinburgh Portraits written by James Paterson and edited by James Maidment |
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137 | (1) |
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71 Dorothy Wordsworth climbs Arthur's Seat; from Recollection of a Tour Made in Scotland AD 1803, by Dorothy Wordsworth |
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138 | (1) |
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72 Quarrying in Salisbury Crags; from Memorials of His Time by Lord Cockburn |
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139 | (1) |
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73 Queen Victoria's military reviews in Holyrood Park; from Old and New Edinburgh by James Grant |
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140 | (4) |
| THE SOUTH SIDE |
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74 George Square; from Anecdotes and Egotisms by Henry Mackenzie, edited by H.W. Thompson |
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144 | (1) |
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75 Skirmishes in George Square; from the General Preface to the Author's Edition of the Waverley Novels, by Walter Scott |
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145 | (1) |
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76 The eighteenth-century origins of the Royal Infirmary; from The History of Edinburgh by Hugo Arnot |
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145 | (2) |
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77 The Meadows in the late eighteenth century; from Memorials of His Time by Lord Cockburn |
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147 | (1) |
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78 The Meadows in 1919; from Two Worlds by David Daiches |
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148 | (1) |
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79 Sciennes Hill House - now part of a tenement block, it was the home of the philosopher and pioneer sociologist Adam Ferguson in the 1780's, and it was there that the boy Walter Scott met Robert Burns; from Scott's account of the meeting, quoted in The Life of Sir Walter Scott by J.G. Lockhart |
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149 | (6) |
| APPROACHES TO EDINBURGH LEITH |
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80 The Earl of Hertford's army lands at Leith in 1544 and burns Edinburgh and Leith; from The History of the Kirk of Scotland by David Calderwood, edited by Thomas Thomson |
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155 | (2) |
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81 The arrival of Mary Queen of Scots from France in 1561; from The History of the Reformation in Scotland by John Knox |
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157 | (1) |
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82 Leith in 1636; from The Diary of Sir William Brereton |
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158 | (1) |
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83 Oyster-trading at Leith; from The History of Edinburgh by Hugo Arnot |
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158 | (1) |
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84 Leith and its commerce in 1799; from Scotland Delineated by Robert Heron |
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159 | (3) |
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85 Leith's struggle for independence in the 1820's; from Memorials of His Time by Lord Cockburn 16o |
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86 King George IV lands at Leith in August 1822; from The Life of Sir Walter Scott by J.G. Lockhart |
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162 | (2) |
| NEWHAVEN |
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87 At Newhaven (the late fifteenth-century 'new haven' of James IV) was built and launched the Great Michael, said at the time to be the largest ship ever built; from The History of Scotland from 1436 to 1565 by Robert Lindsay of Pittscottie |
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164 | (1) |
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88 Newhaven fishwives; from The Town and Port of Leith by James Colston |
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165 | (2) |
| CRAIGCROOK CASTLE |
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89 Jeffrey and the Craigcrook gardens; from the Life of Lord Jeffrey by Lord Cockburn |
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167 | (2) |
| CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE |
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90 Queen Mary at Craigmillar; from Old and New Edinburgh by James Grant |
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169 | (4) |
| LIFE, CUSTOMS AND MORALS |
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91 An English judgement of Scottish cleanliness in 1635; from The Diary of Sir William Brereton |
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173 | (1) |
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92 'Uncleanly customs' - early eighteenth century; from Tour thro' the Whole Island of Great Britain by Daniel Defoe |
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174 | (1) |
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93 'Uncleanly customs' - late eighteenth century; from Letters from Edinburgh; Written in the Years 1774 and 1775 by Captain Edward Topham |
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174 | (1) |
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94 A tavern meal in the eighteenth century; from Letters from a Gentleman in the North of Scotland to his Friend in England by Edward Burt |
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175 | (1) |
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95 A Welshman gives his impression of Edinburgh; from the novel Humphry Clinker (1771) by the Scottish novelist Tobias Smollett |
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175 | (2) |
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96 Dr Johnson in Edinburgh; from Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides with Samuel Johnson LL.D by James Boswell |
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177 | (1) |
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97 Adventures in an inn; from Letters from Edinburgh; written in the Years 1774 and 1775 by Captain Edward Topham |
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178 | (3) |
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98 Improvement in inns (1779); from The History of Edinburgh by Hugo Arnot |
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181 | (2) |
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99 High fashion in an oyster cellar; from Letters from Edinburgh; Written in the Years 1774 and 1775 by Captain Edward Topham |
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183 | (3) |
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100 Music in St Cecilia's Hall in the 1770's; from The History of Edinburgh by Hugo Arnot |
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186 | (2) |
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101 St Cecilia's Hall in decline in the nineteenth century; from Memorials of His Time by Lord Cockburn |
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188 | (1) |
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102 Scottish dancing: an English visitor's view; from Letters from Edinburgh; Written in the Years 1774 and 1775 by Captain Edward Topham |
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189 | (2) |
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103 Ballroom discipline at the end of the eighteenth century; from Memorials of His Time by Lord Cockburn |
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191 | (2) |
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104 'Cawdies'; from Letters from a Gentleman in the North of Scotland to his friend in England by Edward Burt |
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193 | (1) |
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105 Or 'Cadies'?; from Letters from Edinburgh; Written in the Years 1774 and 1775 by Captain Edward Topham |
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194 | (1) |
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106 Supper parties; from Letters from Edinburgh; Written in the Years 1774 and 1775 by Captain Edward Topham |
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194 | (1) |
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107 Changing meal times; from The History of Edinburgh by Hugo Arnot |
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195 | (1) |
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108 Dinner hours and customs; from Memorials of His Time by Lord Cockburn |
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196 | (3) |
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109 Edinburgh society in 1811; from Autobiography 1770-1858 by Mrs Eliza Fletcher |
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199 | (1) |
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110 Reflections on the morning after; from Memoirs and Correspondence of Mrs Grant of Laggan edited by her son, J.P. Grant |
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200 | (1) |
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111 Keeping the King's Birthday in 1665; from the Intelligencer, 1 June 1665, reprinted in The History of Edinburgh by Hugo Arnot |
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201 | (1) |
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112 Keeping the King's Birthday in 1773; from the Weekly Magazine or Edinburgh Amusement, 10 June 1773 |
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202 | (1) |
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113 Keeping King George III's birthday at the end of the eighteenth century; from Memorials of His Time by Lord Cockburn |
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203 | (2) |
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114 Tartan pageantry at George IV's visit to Edinburgh in 1822; from The Life of Sir Walter Scott by J.G. Lockhart |
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205 | (2) |
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115 Cries of Edinburgh; from Anecdotes and Egotisms by Henry Mackenzie (who is looking back in the late 1820's) |
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207 | (1) |
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116 The Scottish Enlightenment; from Literary and Characteristical Lives of Gregory, Karnes, Hume and Smith by William Smellie |
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208 | (1) |
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117 Bookselling in Edinburgh; from Letters from Edinburgh; Written in the Years 1774 and 1775 by Captain Edward Topham |
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209 | (1) |
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118 Constable and the Edinburgh Review (founded in 1802); from Memorials of His Time by Lord Cockburn |
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210 | (2) |
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119 The first year of the Edinburgh International Festival, 1947; from Edinburgh by Eric Linklater |
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212 | (3) |
| Bibliography |
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215 | (4) |
| Index |
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219 | |
Other versions by this Author
