Embroidering Lives: Women's Work and Skill in the Lucknow Embroidery Industry

by
Format: Paperback
Pub. Date: 1999-03-01
Publisher(s): State Univ of New York Pr
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Summary

Fusing aesthetic and economic perspectives in exploring the lives and work of women in the Lucknow, India embroidery industry, this book offers insights into anthropology of work and women's studies. Richly descriptive and accessibly written, this book explores many important issues in women's studies, anthropology, and urban development today -- the impact of purdah (seclusion of women) upon women's work and occupational opportunities, the key role of subcontractors in home-based industry, the need to understand a handicraft from its makers' point of view, and the role of development agencies and programs.

Author Biography

Clare M. Wilkinson-Weber is Adjunct Professor of Anthropology at Washington State University

Table of Contents

List of Maps
vii(2)
List of Figures
ix(2)
List of Tables
xi(2)
A Note on Translation xiii(2)
Acknowledgments xv(4)
Introduction xix
Methodology xxii(2)
Apprenticeship and learning (about) chikan xxiv(2)
Summary of chapters xxvi
Chapter 1 Chikan in Historical Context
1(24)
The field setting
1(3)
What is chikan ?
4(1)
Stitches and "work"
5(4)
Origins and history of chikan
9(16)
Chapter 2 The Division of Labor
25(34)
The production process
25(2)
Knowledge and the division of labor
27(1)
Productive specialties
28(25)
Machine work
53(4)
Conclusion
57(2)
Chapter 3 Embroiderers in Social Perspective
59(28)
Theorizing women's work
59(2)
Problems with statistics
61(3)
Embroidery and poverty
64(3)
Leisure
67(1)
Religion
68(4)
Caste
72(2)
Purdah
74(7)
Embroidery and the life cycle
81(6)
Chapter 4 Work and Wages
87(36)
Embroidery wages
87(9)
Work habits
96(5)
Agents and embroiderers
101(17)
Summary
118(1)
Is chikan embroidery "free-time" work?
119(4)
Chapter 5 Skill and Knowledge in Fine Chikan Embroidery
123(34)
Distinguishing the work of a skilled embroiderer
123(3)
Knowledge of chikan
126(4)
Learning chikan
130(2)
Shauq and pareshani
132(4)
Processes of learning
136(13)
The embroiderer's "design": Planning and execution
149(5)
Working for the market: Concessions in skill
154(3)
Chapter 6 Development Schemes and State Patronage
157(40)
Government handicraft policy
157(4)
Government promotion and patronage
161(12)
Award schemes
173(6)
Training schemes
179(2)
Exhibitions
181(1)
Government jobs for skilled embroiderers
182(1)
SEWA Lucknow
183(9)
Embroiderers, skilled embroiderers, the government, and SEWA Lucknow
192(1)
Conclusion
193(4)
Conclusion 197(8)
Appendix 205(6)
Notes 211(6)
Glossary 217(4)
Bibliography 221(10)
Index 231

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