Iraq; The Bradt Travel Guide

by
Edition: 1st
Format: Trade Paper
Pub. Date: 2002-06-01
Publisher(s): Bradt Travel Guides
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Summary

Iraq today is synonymous in the minds of travelers with the past. Barely two hours from Baghdad, one can walk in the footsteps of Nebuchadnezzar in Babylon or drive past Nineveh's pre-history ochre walls, with their caverns and winged lions.

Author Biography

Karen Dabrowska and Felicity Arbuthnot are both journalists living in London. Karen is a New Zealander who focuses on Islamic culture and conflicts. Felicity specialises in social and environmental issues and has visited Iraq 24 times since the Gulf War. She was Iraq researcher for John Pilger's award-winning documentary, Paying the Price - Killing the Children of Iraq, and has been nominated for several awards including the Millennium Peace Prize for Women.

Table of Contents

Acknowledgements vi
Introduction vii
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1(120)
Background
3(10)
Historical sketch
3(1)
Geography
4(1)
Climate
5(1)
Flora and fauna
6(1)
Population
7(1)
Government
7(1)
Governorates
7(2)
Major towns
9(1)
Economy and sanctions
9(1)
Ethnic groups and languages
10(1)
Religions
11(2)
The Ancient Kingdoms
13(40)
Chronology
13(1)
Early Mesopotamia
13(3)
Before Sumer
16(1)
The Sumerians
17(6)
Babylon and Hammurabi
23(2)
The Assyrians
25(5)
Babylon revisited
30(5)
Umayyads, Abbasids and Ottomans
35(18)
Modern Iraq
53(34)
Chronology
53(1)
20th-century society
54(4)
The British mandate
58(5)
Independence: the first 26 years
63(4)
The 1958 revolution and its aftermath
67(3)
Saddam's Iraq
70(7)
Life under sanctions
77(10)
Practical Information
87(34)
When to visit and how
87(1)
Highlights/ suggested itineraries
88(3)
Tour operators
91(2)
Red tape
93(1)
Getting there and away
94(4)
Health
98(2)
Safety
100(1)
What to take
101(3)
Money
104(1)
Getting around
105(1)
Accommodation
105(1)
Eating and drinking
106(1)
Public holidays and festivals
107(1)
Shopping
108(1)
Arts and entertainment
109(5)
Photography
114(1)
Media and communications
114(1)
Business
115(1)
Embassies
115(1)
Cultural dos and don'ts
115(1)
Interacting with local people
116(1)
Giving something back
116(5)
PART TWO THE GUIDE 121(144)
Archaeological Sites
123(28)
Early archaeology
124(2)
Hints for travellers
126(2)
A-Z of archaeological sites
128(23)
Baghdad and Beyond
151(40)
History
151(19)
Baghdad today
170(14)
Suggested one-day tours
184(3)
Beyond Baghdad
187(4)
The North (Iraqi Kurdistan)
191(35)
Kurdish culture and society
191(14)
The safe-haven
205(4)
Visiting Iraqi Kurdistan
209(1)
Towns, cities, sites, mountains resorts
210(16)
The South
226(39)
Historical background: the Shias and the holy cities
227(10)
The holy cities
237(7)
The marshlands
244(14)
Visiting the marshlands
258(1)
The cities of the south
258(7)
Appendix 1 Language 265(3)
Appendix 2 Further Reading 268(7)
Index 275

Excerpts

"I went to Ur with a dedicated group of anti-sanctions campaigners from Sheffield. Failing to find the turn-off, we returned to an army checkpoint to ask the way. A Shi'a officer said he would show us the way. We drove through a decimated area, bombed in the Gulf War, and with chilling evidence of more recent bombings too. The campaigners had brought a beautifully thought-out mission statement, in Arabic, to give where appropriate. The officer read it with great care, then turned to us, a group of nine from countries who had wrought such havoc on his country. 'Here, in the south, it is incumbent on us to offer hospitality to visitors. My home is simple, but I have five chickens; you will eat well.' It was the eve of Ramadan, which traditionally ends in joyous feast. He was offering us that feast. It encapsulated the dignity, culture and generosity of this extraordinary people¿"I remember going to interview a woman who had lost both her husband and seven-year-old son. She had sold everything she owned to try to get medication for them and when they died she did not even have enough for the shroud cloth. I talked to her in the huge, empty living room and, as we talked, the room filled with children. For these incredibly hospitable, isolated people, a stranger is a rare treat. When I left, dusk was falling and as I got into the battered car the children surrounded it - about 50 of them - waving, laughing and blowing kisses. It was February 21, 1998, the darkest night, the night we were all certain the UK and US were going to bomb again. I went back to my hotel, lay on the bed and cried and cried."

Excerpted from Iraq by Felicity Arbuthnot, Karen Dabrowska
All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.

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