Summary
Highlights functional changes in the structure of the epidermis and the stratum corneum. Presents overviews of clinical and consumer testing approaches together with ex vivo evaluation procedures. Containing over 1100 references, Skin Moisturization is an invaluable source for dermatologists; cosmetic and clinical scientists and chemists; skin biologists; and upper-level undergraduate, graduate, and medical students in these disciplines.
Author Biography
James J. Leyden is Professor of Dermatology, University of Pennsylvania School of Medicine, Philadelphia. The editor or coeditor of over 270 journals, book chapters, and abstracts, he is a member of the Society of Investigative Dermatology and the American Academy of Dermatology, acted as Editor-in-Chief of Cutaneous Aging and Cosmetic Dermatology (1988-92), and served as the U.S. Army Chief of Dermatology (1968-70). Dr. Leyden received the B.A. degree (1962) from Saint Joseph's College, Rensselaer, Indiana, and the M.D. degree (1972) from the University of Pennsylvania School of Medicine, Philadelphia Anthony V. Rawlings is Science Area Leader for Biosciences, Unilever Research, Bebington, England. The editor or coeditor of over 70 papers, book chapters, and abstracts, Dr. Rawlings holds over 40 patents in the areas of cosmetic science and dermatology, several of which have contributed to major Unilever brands, and is a member of the Society of Investigative Dermatologists and the Society of Cosmetic Scientists. He received the B.Sc. degree (1982) in biochemistry from Manchester University, England, and the Ph.D. degree (1990) in biochemistry from Liverpool University, England
Table of Contents
Series Introduction |
|
iii | |
|
Preface |
|
vii | |
Contributors |
|
xiii | |
Introduction |
|
|
The Skin Moisturizer Marketplace |
|
|
1 | (30) |
|
STRATUM CORNEUM AND EPIDERMAL BIOLOGY |
|
|
Stratum Corneum Ceramides and Their Role in Skin Barrier Function |
|
|
31 | (30) |
|
|
|
Stratum Corneum Moisturizing Factors |
|
|
61 | (20) |
|
|
|
Desquamation and the Role of Stratum Corneum Enzymes |
|
|
81 | (14) |
|
|
The Cornified Envelope: Its Role in Stratum Conneum Structure and Maturation |
|
|
95 | (24) |
|
|
|
XEROTIC SKIN CONDITIONS |
|
|
Dry and Xerotic Skin Conditions |
|
|
119 | (26) |
|
|
|
|
|
Sensitive Skin and Moisturization |
|
|
145 | (10) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
155 | (10) |
|
|
|
|
165 | (14) |
|
|
|
|
179 | (24) |
|
|
Solvent-, Surfactant-, and Tape Stripping-Induced Xerosis |
|
|
203 | (20) |
|
EFFICACY OF MOISTURIZERS AND MOISTURIZING INGREDIENTS |
|
|
Clinical Effects of Emollients on Skin |
|
|
223 | (22) |
|
|
|
|
|
245 | (22) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ceramides as Natural Moisturizing Factors and Their Efficacy in Dry Skin |
|
|
267 | (36) |
|
|
Phosphatidylcholine and Skin Hydration |
|
|
303 | (20) |
|
|
|
|
323 | (30) |
|
|
Salicylic Acid and Derivatives |
|
|
353 | (12) |
|
|
|
The Efficacy, Stability, and Safety of Topically Applied Protease in Treating Xerotic Skin |
|
|
365 | (20) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
385 | (20) |
|
|
|
405 | (28) |
|
Kavssery P. Ananthapadmanabhan |
|
|
|
EVALUATION METHODOLOGIES |
|
|
|
433 | (32) |
|
|
|
|
Clinical Testing of Moisturizers |
|
|
465 | (34) |
|
|
Noninvasive Instrumental Methods for Assessing Moisturizers |
|
|
499 | (30) |
|
|
|
|
Laboratory-Based Ex Vivo Assessment of Stratum Corneum Function |
|
|
529 | (18) |
|
Claudine Pierard-Franchimont |
|
|
|
|
FORMULATION |
|
|
Formulation of Skin Moisturizers |
|
|
547 | (38) |
|
|
Formulation and Assessment of Moisturizing Cleansers |
|
|
585 | (26) |
|
|
SAFETY AND REGULATORY |
|
|
Safety Assessment of Cosmetic Products |
|
|
611 | (24) |
|
|
Regulatory Assessment of Cosmetic Products |
|
|
635 | (16) |
|
Index |
|
651 | |